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by:
Axel Klein (aklein)
I like "happy accident" in modelism
yesterday I placed the model outside because too much terpentine smelling after weathering
(I tried to make dirty grease under the car)
dew observed in the morning
after evaporation some white chemicals reaction like one more oxidation on rust parts
good effect
I will try your technic
all modelers have some nightmare with cyanoacrylate evaporation!!!!
thanks for your comment
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by:
Roger Knight (roger)
this, when it works looks real....
Spray 'Humbrol metal cote' onto the exhaust, and polish in the normal way then pore 'super glue ' cyanoacrylate' in a dish or similar...place the exhaust very close to the super glue (not touching it) and the heat (chemical reaction) from the cyan glue as it cures somehow heats the 'metal cote' and actually 'blues' the paint in a perfect way. I discovered this by a happy accident ... try it on some scrap.. control it and it is better than any paints
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by:
Axel Klein (aklein)
for bluing I use alclad color chrome
and after I use alclad clear blue, orange and red
very lights coats until I am satisfied
but it's not always the case
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by:
Roger Knight (roger)
That looks awesome!
I always use real rust scraped from a piece of rusty old iron and then grind it in a pestle and mortar until its the same consistency as talcum powder then rub it into a matt surface. The downside if this is you cant handle it much once its finished, your technique is much more impressive!
Now, at the risk if starting a forum next to your model pictures...
What's the best way to replicate 'bluing' on an exhaust pipe? Painting is about as realistic as Harry Potter?
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