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>> Airbrushing: FAQ
>> A weathering technique using salt
>> Applying decals on cars and motorcycles
>> Building a  vacu airplane kit
>> Equivalences for racing colours with Tamiya.
>> Giving a rusty finishing to military vehicles
>> How to build a model kit
>> How to build a car model with open doors
>> How to paint with lacquers
>> Learning how to paint faces with acrylics
>> How to make a tarpaulin for military vehicles
>> Modelling a bust, Step by step
>> Modelling tips for newcomers
>> Painting a figure step by step
>> Painting, the key to plastic modelling.
>> Painting wheels for military in five steps
>> Placing tracks in the Tamiya's T-55
>> Realistic Fork Tubes for 1/12 scale motorcycles
>> Realistic chipped paint in military
>> Scratch Building helmets for cars and motorcycles
>> Spray booth, design and fan selection
>> T-34 Round-up. All the info and versions
>> Tamiya's paint to FS and Humbrol conversion chart
>> The "Weathering"
>> Weathering with the sponge technique
>> Weathering using pigments... step by step
>> Weathering tricks in airplanes for novice modellers
>> Wheels in F1 car models
>> Working with Alclad paints - These pages including all artwork are copyrighted 2006/2010 - Sitemap
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1969 Camaro Part 11

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Continued progress. See Part 1 for history and intended direction for this project.

Part 12 click the link

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The dash is done. I’m not sure where the decals for the gauges went, so I created new ones. I added the stem for the clock and machined the accordion for the crush cage and a tachometer. The tach face came from “The Official
The steering wheel came from the parts box, I think it is an older Tamiya Porsche item, it looks a lot like the Momo I have on my real one. Just painted the molded in details, and added the stitching to the wrapping…
The battery (another old item fabricated during the “first phase” of this build) is done and installed. The battery was milled from billet aluminum and the caps are aluminum rod and styrene. They are removable because they can be.
The battery clamps were scratchbuilt from styrene, good old fashioned, low-tech basic cutting-filing and cementing together. The clamp’s bolts are cut from hex rod. The battery tray was fabricated from sheet aluminum. The hold down is brass and the fastener for the hold down is made from styrene hex rod. Decals are custom made items.
The throttle linkage is installed. Made of wire for the linkages and return springs and thick foil for the brackets. The adjuster is made from hex styrene and scored to denote the lock nuts. The springs were made by wrapping fine wire around a small drill bit.
The T-Bolts for the valve covers are made from aluminum rod and some leftover PE scrap pieces, cut and bent (for the handles) and I punched a small disc for the center “button” of each one from foil ducting tape, with a tool I made from brass tubing. More low-buck, low-tech-niques…
Also added some hose clamps to the plumbing.
The front suspension is done. I made an idler arm since the kit did not provide one and replaced the center section of the tie rod assembly due to the big block conversion. Added more nuts, bolts, washers and fittings… and a little more weathering.
The engine bay is about done, I’m sure I’ll find some other details I either forgot or happen to think up. The radiator overflow can is an aftermarket item I machined, still need to add that bolt to the fan shroud…
I painted the lettering on the tires with Testors Insignia white enamel. It does dry contrary to what many seem to think. I have many 20+ year builds done this way, and the paint is still on the tires and not sticky.

Comments for this showroom

by: Joseph Scinta () on 2011-12-01 - 00:15

OMG the detail is awsome.. How does one get so talented? Joe